Grease was used on the single action points of hammers and triggers, the double action strut, inside S&W rebounds and on Colt rebound levers, and the cylinder lock bolt in S&W, and Colt's.
In other words in areas were grease could be not be applied easily. In revolvers the oil was used on hammer and trigger pins and general points like the cylinder crane or yoke shaft where it enters the cylinder, and the ejector rod. The grease was used on hammer and trigger interfaces, hammer and trigger pins, slide and frame rails, outside of barrels, sears, and disconnectors, inside the mainspring housing, the slid stop pin, and the recoil spring. In the 1911 the oil was used for general lubrication like magazine catch and spring, magazine springs, and safety shaft. You can use the spray grease to lube hard to do parts like long rifle recoil springs and other coil springs by wrapping the spring up on a newspaper pad and spraying it. The spray grease is about the same consistency of the Super Lube oil and once in a while I found the brush worked better then a needle oiler. I actually sprayed the well-shaken spray grease into a small bottle with a brush on the cap.
Generally the oil and grease worked out to be be used about equally. No BS, from many years of experience in my and my customers guns Super Lube is as good or better then any lubricants I ever tried.Īlso, as a synthetic it has no effect I ever saw on plastics, rubber, or anything else gun related. I bought it direct from Synco, but sometimes you can find small tubes of grease and oilers of the oil at Brownell's and Midway. I transferred the oil into syringes or needle oilers, and the grease into small jars so the big can wouldn't get contaminated. I bought the grease in 400 gram cans and the oil in 4 ounce bottles. The carrier evaporates almost instantly leaving a coat of grease that's about equivalent in consistency to the Super Lube oil. It comes out of the can as a mist that sticks to the surface. Super Lube also makes and interesting spray grease. To do this I put a few drops of CLP on a clean, soft toothbrush and "scrub" the surfaces inside and out to leave a very thin coat that prevents rusting. In most firearms I used CLP Breakfree as a rust preventer and Super Lube oil or grease as the lubricant. The oil is a thin grease-thick oil consistency that stays put, unlike thinner lubricants that run off, creep away, or dry out.Īgain, it's there and working many years later. When it gets dirty you can easily see it because of the clear-white color.
It doesn't evaporate, separate, dry out, sling off, or deteriorate in any way. The grease is stiff enough to stay put and I've opened up customer guns as long as 10 years after servicing to find it still in place and working. I did so because Super Lube is a total synthetic with Teflon that just works better then any other lubes I tried over the years. I used Super Lube oil and grease extensively on customer guns and my own for many years.